Leaving Damascus we crossed into Jordon and once again the difference between the two places was immediately obvious. Jordon is clearly richer; the infrastructure is better and the culture is more liberal. The stereotypical sunglasses endowed 'Arab in a Merc' is a little more believable here and I am sure I saw at least one. Jordon was a whistle-stop-tour as we drove from the northern border through Aaman and on towards Petra. As we did so it became obvious that the terrain was also changing. While Syria is relatively green, at least in parts, Jordon is a desert realm. In the words of a now relatively famous song: 'it was all yellow'. Sand here is not restricted to the beach and vegetation is at best scrubby and dry.

Petra was our next stop. The ancient ruin made famous by the closing scene of Indiana Jones: The Last Crusade, is an astonishing site and firmly on the list of unmissables when visiting this country. An early morning start here is recommened both for the chance to visit the place without the hoards of tourists that come later in the day and because after about 10 in the morning it is hotter than the seventh level of hell!

Despite the heat it is easy to lose two days exploring this site. The landscape is impressive all by itself and there are lots of opportunities for interesting walks down the paths of dry river beds and through canyons formed by ancient earth-quakes. Add to this the incredible facades carved out of the soft volcanic rock and the place is nothing short of a wonder. The long walk from the gate of the park to the high Temple at the far reaches of the site is a must, both for the astonishing architecture and for the incredible views down from the high mountans and across desert planes towards Israel. Of course if you don't fancy the walk there are also the donkey / camel taxi's that offer a fine if unstable alternative to shanks's pony.

Thanks all the same, but I'd rather walk.