Well leaving Mcleod Ganj we headed back out of the mountains and towards Delhi. I was not particularly looking forward to this. In fact I have, perhaps a little unfairly considering I have never been there, been referring to India's capital as 'Smelly' for most of the trip. I am not, as I may have mentioned, much of a city person and I would have happily left this one off the itinerary. I imagined Delhi to be one of the largest, smelliest and most unpleasant cities I was likely to visit.

As it turned out Delhi was, in fact, one of the largest, smelliest and most unpleasant cities I have visited. So no real surprise on that front, but it was not without redeeming features. Firstly we had a nice hotel and a small slice of luxury is not to be sneezed at. We also spent quite a pleasant day, despite the heat, finding our way around the very new and swish metro system - which was a pleasure to use in itself if only because it didn't involve risking life and limb on the rickshaws - and visited the great mosque and the Red Fort, ate some nice food and generally soaked up the atmosphere. As our esteemed driver said - Delhi grows on you.