The first thing that hits you about Iran is Shirea law, and it hits you pretty hard. Women everywhere dressed in Black flowing robes with just their hands and faces showing is something to behold. It's like being parachuted into a scene form 'March of the Penguins'.
Fashion by Henry Ford; any colour as long as it's black.
Our two weeks in Iran have been a whistle stop tour, but an enlightening one. It is hard to imagine how the reality could be further from the popular image we are fed by the British media of a terrorist state populated by sword-wielding religious nut-jobs and boiler-suite clad hostages. Our two weeks took us from the Turkish border through Tabriz, through the paddy fields and temperate rain-forests of the north west, found us drinking smuggled Armenian vodka in a Butlins style holiday resort on the coast of the Caspian sea, took us walking in the mist clad mountains of Masoule, through the mountains of Hamadan and into the desert regions of Esfahan, Shiraz and Yazd and then on to Tehran, and nowhere did we encounter other than a friendly and enthusiastic welcome.
There are many reasons to visit Iran: the landscape, the history, the architecture, the culture, the handicrafts, all of which are quite unique, and not forgetting the inevitable opportunity to purchase a Persian rug. First and foremost amongst these reasons, though, must simply be to meet the Iranians.
It is here I admit my embarrassing ignorance of the Iranian heritage, but it came as a revelation to most of us that this is not an Arab race. This fact is quite literally written on the faces of the people as soon as you enter the country. With origins that stem from the Arian races of Russia the predominant facial characteristics of the Iranians are almost as far removed from those of the peoples of the Arab states as are our own.
Iran has a long history of being at odds with the Arabs. It is perhaps not surprising therefore to find amongst a fair cross-section of people that there remains a strong anti-Arab feeling (not perhaps enhanced by the relatively recent invasion by a certain despotic Iraqi leader). It nevertheless comes like a blow from a sledge hammer to discover that a large proportion of people here are pro Britain and the USA and that there appears to be quite strong support of the most recent Iraq war - another substantial revelation.
Politics is, quite understandably, a hot topic of conversation here and in their characteristically frank and open manner we were quizzed regularly on our opinions of the current 'negotiations' between the Mullah regime and another well known despotic, religious nut-job. There is a general feeling here that the Iranians have had enough of having religious doctrine shoved mercilessly down their throats and the Mullah regime is apparently a long way from popular amongst the Iranian people. Change, I think would be almost universally welcomed; there is nevertheless a very clear, present and understandable concern about the possibility of potential on-coming hostilities. From my own, admittedly naive, perspective any such hostilities would be a tragedy of biblical proportions. Whether you agree with the action taken in Iraq or not, it was impossible not to recognise the human tragedy that was routinely taking place there under the guidance of the Regime. Whilst there is no doubt that Iran exists under the cloud of an overly conservative and perhaps oppressive religious regime, however, these are not an abused people. Any justification for pre-emptive military action would, at least internally, lack the imperative of harming the few to save the many and as such would be far harder to defend.
It is impossible to discuss Iran without mentioning Politics and Religion, but one should not forget the people. Everywhere we went we were welcomed with friendly curiosity by seemingly happy people keen to find out where we were from and what we thought of their country (and to sell us carpets). It is in many ways a paradox, but whilst the Islamic regime restricts freedom it also provides a safe environment and allows for friendly inter-personal interactions that simply do not exist in 'free' countries. The Iranians are a handsome race. There are an astonishing number of truly beautiful women in this country and yet there exists none of the arrogance, posturing or social tension that is found in Britain. Maybe because the law here provides such an intractable safety net people are free to assume a more open, natural and friendly attitude free of the defensiveness and assumptions that plague our own society. Food for thought indeed.
In the end all regimes fall. Moderation is gradually seeping in and boundaries are being tested at all levels. This is perhaps most notable in the younger generations who are finding ways to morph traditional Muslim dress as far towards sixties French chic as is humanly conceivable. Head-scarves are no more than token gestures leaving designer hair-cuts clearly in evidence, chadores are becoming tighter-fitting, hem-lines are receding and Hollywood looks and heavy makeup are commonplace. In the face of cultural creep it is hard to see how the current regime cannot gradually begin to crumble. There is always, of course, the possibility of a Tiananmen Square style resurgence but I fervently hope for the sake of the wonderful people I met here that the current political saber rattling comes to naught and the Iranian people are given time and license to instigate whatever change they wish from within.
Fashion by Henry Ford; any colour as long as it's black.
Our two weeks in Iran have been a whistle stop tour, but an enlightening one. It is hard to imagine how the reality could be further from the popular image we are fed by the British media of a terrorist state populated by sword-wielding religious nut-jobs and boiler-suite clad hostages. Our two weeks took us from the Turkish border through Tabriz, through the paddy fields and temperate rain-forests of the north west, found us drinking smuggled Armenian vodka in a Butlins style holiday resort on the coast of the Caspian sea, took us walking in the mist clad mountains of Masoule, through the mountains of Hamadan and into the desert regions of Esfahan, Shiraz and Yazd and then on to Tehran, and nowhere did we encounter other than a friendly and enthusiastic welcome.
There are many reasons to visit Iran: the landscape, the history, the architecture, the culture, the handicrafts, all of which are quite unique, and not forgetting the inevitable opportunity to purchase a Persian rug. First and foremost amongst these reasons, though, must simply be to meet the Iranians.
It is here I admit my embarrassing ignorance of the Iranian heritage, but it came as a revelation to most of us that this is not an Arab race. This fact is quite literally written on the faces of the people as soon as you enter the country. With origins that stem from the Arian races of Russia the predominant facial characteristics of the Iranians are almost as far removed from those of the peoples of the Arab states as are our own.
Iran has a long history of being at odds with the Arabs. It is perhaps not surprising therefore to find amongst a fair cross-section of people that there remains a strong anti-Arab feeling (not perhaps enhanced by the relatively recent invasion by a certain despotic Iraqi leader). It nevertheless comes like a blow from a sledge hammer to discover that a large proportion of people here are pro Britain and the USA and that there appears to be quite strong support of the most recent Iraq war - another substantial revelation.
Politics is, quite understandably, a hot topic of conversation here and in their characteristically frank and open manner we were quizzed regularly on our opinions of the current 'negotiations' between the Mullah regime and another well known despotic, religious nut-job. There is a general feeling here that the Iranians have had enough of having religious doctrine shoved mercilessly down their throats and the Mullah regime is apparently a long way from popular amongst the Iranian people. Change, I think would be almost universally welcomed; there is nevertheless a very clear, present and understandable concern about the possibility of potential on-coming hostilities. From my own, admittedly naive, perspective any such hostilities would be a tragedy of biblical proportions. Whether you agree with the action taken in Iraq or not, it was impossible not to recognise the human tragedy that was routinely taking place there under the guidance of the Regime. Whilst there is no doubt that Iran exists under the cloud of an overly conservative and perhaps oppressive religious regime, however, these are not an abused people. Any justification for pre-emptive military action would, at least internally, lack the imperative of harming the few to save the many and as such would be far harder to defend.
It is impossible to discuss Iran without mentioning Politics and Religion, but one should not forget the people. Everywhere we went we were welcomed with friendly curiosity by seemingly happy people keen to find out where we were from and what we thought of their country (and to sell us carpets). It is in many ways a paradox, but whilst the Islamic regime restricts freedom it also provides a safe environment and allows for friendly inter-personal interactions that simply do not exist in 'free' countries. The Iranians are a handsome race. There are an astonishing number of truly beautiful women in this country and yet there exists none of the arrogance, posturing or social tension that is found in Britain. Maybe because the law here provides such an intractable safety net people are free to assume a more open, natural and friendly attitude free of the defensiveness and assumptions that plague our own society. Food for thought indeed.
In the end all regimes fall. Moderation is gradually seeping in and boundaries are being tested at all levels. This is perhaps most notable in the younger generations who are finding ways to morph traditional Muslim dress as far towards sixties French chic as is humanly conceivable. Head-scarves are no more than token gestures leaving designer hair-cuts clearly in evidence, chadores are becoming tighter-fitting, hem-lines are receding and Hollywood looks and heavy makeup are commonplace. In the face of cultural creep it is hard to see how the current regime cannot gradually begin to crumble. There is always, of course, the possibility of a Tiananmen Square style resurgence but I fervently hope for the sake of the wonderful people I met here that the current political saber rattling comes to naught and the Iranian people are given time and license to instigate whatever change they wish from within.
posted by Al at 1:22 am
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